Backpacker culture, Chiang Mai and Taylor Hay - they all change.

I have been back in Thailand for about 3 weeks now, and it is such a different experience than 3 years ago.
Firstly, the town has changed. Massive amounts of Chinese tourists are pouring through Chiang Mai. The Thai's are responding by translating signs, selling Chinese food and smiling in spite of the characteristics that make Chinese tourists so unique.
Also, backpackers have changed. Very few people people sitting in the front garden of Julie Guesthouse are reading a book, or having a chat - or even asking advice of where to go! I stopped by Julies last night for dinner, and was amazed. The corner seat (seating for about five people) had 4 people sitting there each on Skype/Facetime in the middle of the bloody common area! A glance towards the pool table showed 3 people sitting on their phones, with headphones in, and across the room was a guy scrolling through the infinite Facebook newsfeed on a laptop.
I believe that the invention of medicine, tours, the internet, Skype and broad social circles (courtesy of Facebook, Twitter and Instagram) has almost removed part of the adventure from traveling. I have to laugh at some of the people I see here in Chiang Mai. They are not travelers, they should be at home. But instead due to pressure from their culture, friends and this ethereal "gap year" that they must partake in - they are here. Shitting their pants in Thailand unsure of what to do.
Even in three years, the general attitude has shifted alot more into the fear of brushing your teeth with tap water, the fear of riding a motorbike, the fear of eating street food.
I met a German couple at the bus station on the way up here, it was 7am and when I sleepily stumbled my way off the train (I got lost) I found them huddled in the station wide eyed and panic stricken. I mumbled something about tourists to myself, bought a coffee and some fried chicken, and was approached by a Thai man who told me to get into the back of a pickup truck. I obliged and soon the German couple joined me. They asked where it was going, and I told them that the guy that found me had said bus station but who knows! They didnt look amused. They asked how much it cost, I said I dont know. They asked when it left, I dont know. "What time does the bus leave?"
"I dont know."
"Is your coffee made with boiled tap water that still contains bad things or bottled water?"
"I dont know."
"You shouldn't sit on the edge of the truck, its dangerous. What if they hit a bump? You better have good insurance if your sitting on the edge."
I realized that our conversation was probably over, and I didnt have the heart to tell them that I dont have insurance. They looked like scared puppies nestled amongst the cargo in the back of the truck, holding on for dear life, as we bounced around Sila At. The ride turned out to be free, a service by the bus company.
Backpackers used to desire authenticity. Real experience. The way I see it now though, it looks like they desire the iconic profile pictures, and a few trinkets. They want to get back to their home country as soon as possible. Put in their time overseas however much they hate it, so that they can put it on their CV and appear cultured. When in reality they never left their culture - just their country.
There is a whole town within Chiang Mai, its called Hong Dong, and its an expat community. Gated communities, western food, western schools, security. The chains are the hangout spots - McDonalds, Burger King, Starbucks. Im sure that most of the people who live in these places are not trying to get into the culture. They dont want to be here. They are masochistically here because of religion, or they are here on business, and would rather not be. I have always figured that was normal for those people, but never thought that backpackers would be the same.

The Minister of Tourism in Mae Chaem asks us how to bring tourists in.

The other reason for the difference is me. I have changed more than Chiang Mai has in the last three years. More than the backpacker culture even. The things I used to find appealing are slowly losing appeal. The man in the picture here to the left asked us about tourism. Why we travel. He asked how many countries we had each been to, and when it came to me and I said 27 - he nearly spit out his food. I didnt feel cool about it, I felt bad about it. Thats new. He explained that he wishes he could have traveled, but unfortunately now he has a good job, a family, and a car. He said he is not happy. I told him that in my experience visiting 27 countries - I am not happy either. I desire a good job, a family and a car. He recited a Thai proverb that for the previous couple of weeks I had been considering getting as a tattoo - ใด ๆ ในโลกล้วนอนิจจัง - it means "All on this earth is unstable, not lasting, uncertain and transitory." We went on to talk about how to attract tourists, as he wants to grow the industry. We assume that someone called his office when they saw us sit down for breakfast - there is no tourism in this town. I imagine him rushing out to fake a random meeting with us, and have this chat.

The Next Episode

Im leaving Thailand? This doesn't feel right!
I have been hanging out with a super cool dude named Dan for the last few days in Chiang Mai, eating vegetarian food and going to art gallery openings.
Its only when I look at Thailand through the idea of leaving it tonight do I realize how much this place has become my home. How normal everything is, the culture the language the customs. It doesnt feel like a trip destination anymore...

Im having the same feelings and emotions as I did just before I left home to come to Thailand! But now Im leaving my new home to go to India!

Im stoked for the new adventure, new culture, new food to try! Im boarding in an hour, flying to Bangkok then tonight I fly to Mumbai. Im planning on sleeping in the airport, and then tomorrow either finding a place to stay or taking a train somewhere. Mumbai is expensive, and I have missed trains! I cant wait to try the Indian rails.

Philosophy Change!

I have been quoted saying, long before I left on this trip that "when I travel, I prefer to meet other travelers over people from the culture Im in" I totally said "Im just as happy hanging out with a Dutch guy in Nicaragua as a Nicaraguan. In fact I prefer it sometimes!"

Well that is not true anymore. Maybe its taken getting off the road and living in Chiang Rai for me to see, that I love locals. When I traveled in Central America, I needed to be in a hostel with a bunch of other foreigners to feel comfortable. Right now Im in my favorite guesthouse in Chiang Mai, surrounded by French, Dutch, Germans and English. And I feel uncormfortable. I find myself chatting with the Thai staff and not the other travelers.. This morning at the Indian embassy I got annoyed with the other farangs (foreigners) waiting in line with me. I talked to an Indian man and I was much more energized and stoked!
I have spent many days over the last 2 months spending time with just Thai people. Talking with Malai and Duan in the morning. Getting lunch at my noodle stall and chatting to the owner. Getting dinner with Lek and In, and then going to a festival and not seeing another foreigner for days. The language barrier, and cultural differences that used to intimidate me now are comforting! I loved Chiang Mai two months ago, but I dont like it so much anymore. Today during lunch, I was people watching and I counted more foreigners than Thai's in the street, I really missed Chiang Rai and its undiscoveredness.
When I was in Central America, and even at the beginning of this trip my highlights, the things that made my days where meeting other backpackers, and seeing the sights. The reclining Buddha in Bangkok, volcano boarding in Nicaragua, snorkeling in Costa Rica.
But not so much anymore, the things that I love most about life right now are this.

• While driving from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai this morning, I saw several spots on the road where I have memories. A place I stopped and sat under a tree and ate an entire chicken four months ago while making the same drive, and a shop where my bike broke down when I drove up two months ago and the owner fixed my clutch for free.
• When I pulled into town and failed to avoid a police trap ticketing people without helmets, I chatted to the cop in Thai, we talked about Thailand and joked about America. He charged me half price for the ticket (200 baht instead of 400) and explained where the police station was. I payed and went back to him to pick up my drivers license, and he smiled like we where old friends. He gave me a hug before I left, and introduced me to 2 other police officers who smiled and shook my hand.
• I ran out of money, and told the woman who owns the place I live, she told me that the kitchen was mine, and the staff will make me any food I want free of charge. She hired a new manager and the first thing she did was explain that I am family and can do whatever I want (use the kitchen, hang out in the office, use the computers without paying, etc) Im going to visit her and her husband in Switzerland - they said Im welcome any time for as long as I want.
• I pulled up to the place I rented my motorbike today (I have 32 days that I havent payed for, and havent heard from them or contacted them in as long) The owner, who had never met me came out and said "are you Taylor? Jeff told me about you! How are you?" He cleaned the bike and tightened the chain and told me "keep it as long as you need, we will work out payment later. The Thai girl who works there pulled out my sunglasses that I left there a month ago and handed them to me, she remembered they where mine.
• Im learning Thai beyond the few traveler phrases! I can recognize lots of words in songs and on TV.
• I know Chiang Rai like the back of my hand, I consider it MY town now.
• I went into a bookstore I frequent, and the owner remembered me by name, she pointed at the Jack Kerouac section, she knew I was heading for it. And gave me a sweet deal on a book I traded in.

These are the type of things that make me super happy, that I live for.

I havent been on a single "tour" no Gibbon Experience, elephant riding, trek or cooking class. My friend Duan taught me how to cook while we where hanging out in the kitchen one night. A friend took me up into her village in the mountains and her mother gave me a bunch of bananas and showed me her house. That is a million times more meaningful and rewarding than paying an inflated price for a guide to take you on some set tourist route... I have zero interest in that.

It reminds me of Xi'an, China. I planned on spending a day there, but I was at an awesome hostel. I met awesome people. The restaurant across the street knew my order and started cooking as soon as they saw me walking over. I spent 5 days there, and then went back with Eric. I never even saw the terracotta soldiers of Xi'an. But I feel like I know Xi'an better than most. THATS what traveling is about for me.

It cant be accomplished in a hurry or on a tight schedule. And it takes going off the beaten path and trusting people who you dont necessarily understand.

It takes breaking out of the traveler circuits, and staying away from places like Vang Viang, Laos. Its different and by no means for everyone! Im not belittling other ways of travel. But this is the way I want to do it from now on.