From Delhi to Amsterdam

The Taj was sweet, I sat on a roof and enjoyed the view for free! I headed to the train station early, and just sat on the platform reading and watching people.
A group of beggar children came up asking for baksheesh, and I told them no, but bought them some juice and insisted that they drink it right then (otherwise they sell it back to the shopkeeper for a couple rupees) they posed for some pictures, and I taught them how to beg in English!
Almost all the begger kids in India are working for a syndicate. They live and eat together somewhere, and pay all the money they earn from begging to the leader. Who through fear and dependence keeps the kids in his pocket. Many of the deformed beggars are mutilated intentionally to earn more money (Think Slumdog Millionaire)
The way to stop this, is to cut off the money to the leaders of these syndicates, as hard as it is - stop giving money to these children... But buying them food, and making sure its opened or watching the kids eat it, is a way to help them without paying into the corruption.

Camels, desert, and a bit of blood!

Rachel and I left Udaipur, a little sad. Its an amazing place.

Jahar (the owner of our guesthouse) gave us massages, (I had never before had a man take my pants off, and then rub me down with oil...) and drove us to the bus station. He said a tearful goodbye to Rachel and told her he loved her. He like every Indian man was in love...

We took off for Jaidpur, where we had to change buses to get to Jaisalmer, a town on the edge of the Thor desert near Pakistan. It was an insanely cold bus ride, and I almost froze to death many times. Especially sitting at the Jaidpur bus station at 4am waiting for the next bus.

But soon enough we where on board and heading for the desert. We arrived in the late morning, and headed to a random guesthouse to ask about desert camel adventures. We found a sweet dude who hooked us up with an all inclusive 2 day one night safari for a good price. We got our camel riding gear on and hit the road in a jeep! I was tired from not sleeping at all the night before (freezing cold, bus, wearing shorts) but was super pumped and rolled hard!

We drove an hour out into the desert singing songs with our driver (turns out he knows about 7 words in English, but all of fraroujaqua in French) He stopped to make a phone call in the desert, and I slid over to the drivers seat, threw it in drive and took the jeep for a lap around a mound of shruberies! He smiled and chased along. We continued on, and met up with a group of people just coming back from a night in the desert, they shared tips, and we ate a delicious lunch with them, and then they took off in the jeep and we took off on the camels!

Camel riding is freaking hard. It hurts. After 15 minutes I was over the novelty of it, and tried to get into a rhythm with my beast, but it still was hard... after a couple hours I got down and walked for a couple, and alternated. 81 kilometers later we arrived at camp, and Bobbee (our guide) set up camp while Rachel and I played on the dunes.

We came back to cups of chai, and had a super of amazing food cooked on a tiny scout fire, including fresh made chapati! Bobbee packed in a couple cabbages, a bag of flour, some potatoes and garlic. And a handful of spices, and the meals that he made where all mind blowing! By now it was dark, and really cold. We made our beds on the sand, and crawled under a pile of blankets! I have never ever seen stars like that night, it was amazing.

Rachel woke me up in the morning and the three of us sat around the fire drinking chai, and ate a breakfast of boiled eggs and toast, then we hit the road again.

Another 4 hours of riding through insane enviroments, volcanic rock, desert, forest... It was amazing, I was so happy to walk along behind the camels and take it all in. I listened to Amnesiac and OK Computer both in their entirety (Radiohead albums for those who dont know!) and it was perfect.

We got to a riverbed and made more food for lunch, and then our jeep came back to pick us up! We drove back to town, and showered at the guesthouse where we booked, packed up, and headed to the bus station for another overnight bus! Rachel to Pushkar and me to Jaisalmer to catch a connecting bus to Agra. (on the same bus, she just got off before me)

Somewhere in the middle, the bus broke down, and everyone got off to pee. I hadnt been feeling good, my stomach was funky. I went behind a building a exploded in a torrent of incredibly spicy vomit all over a pile of bricks. I felt so much better after!

We got back on the bus and continued. Rachel got off in Pushkar and we said a sad farewell, and I sat in my seat and froze sleeplessly once again. We pulled into Jaisalmer at 5am, and I decided to not catch a connecting bus, I needed sleep and warmth. I was shivering uncontrollably and figured thats not a good thing... I got a room at the first guesthouse I saw, I was to exhausted to barter much. I got into the room and took a semi warm shower, and crawled under a huge pile of blankets. I slept from 6am until 11am, and checked out and went to the train station. But the trains where all full, I got a rickshaw to the bus station, and the driver told me his friend was driving to Agra that afternoon with two American girls, and I could go with him if I helped with gas! I was down, but the friend wasnt answering his phone so we got some chai to wait. I was skeptical this whole time, the guy had a shady vibe. And I soon figured out what it was. He offered me 15,000 Euros! And all I had to do was a “legal” job for his friend (the very friend who was supposed to give me a ride) and smuggle 40,000 Euros worth of gems into England! I played along for the fun of it, and then told him no. He took me to the bus station and I jumped onto my 6 hour bus to Agra.

It was pretty uneventful, we got into Agra later than I hoped (I had planned on seeing the Taj after getting off the bus, and then getting an overnight train to Delhi. But it was after dark, and I am still super tired.

I decided to make my last night in India a good one, and get a super good deal on everything, barter like crazy. So I wandered around with my pack chatting with Rickshaw drivers and guesthouse owners. I offered one guesthouse owner 500 rupees for a bed for the night and a train ticket for the next day, I talked prices and times with him, and not satisfied went to a travel agent and got HIS prices for the train ticket. 200 rupees. I didnt like it, so I walked on and met another travel agent who walked me away from his friends into a dark alley and whispered to me “just go to the train station, you can buy the same ticket for 80 rupees...” I was stoked, he told me how much to pay for a rickshaw (5 rupees, and I had been quoted 50 rupees earlier...) I high fived him and headed on. I got to the station bought the wrong ticket, returned it, and got a new one. I started walking back towards where I thought I had come from, and got a bit lost. But my spirits where high so I walked on! All of a sudden I felt a pain in my ankle and I tripped, I tried to recover but my backpack slid up and threw off my balance. I fell face down on the road and slid on my forehead. LITERALY! I slid an inch or so on my forehead and knee.

One man that had been walking past me as I fell didnt even look back, and another man across the street ran through traffic risking his life to see if I was ok – oh India.

I brushed myself off, and looked to see what happened... It was a suport cable for a power pole, that ran into the sidewalk. But it was so dark it was impossible to see! And they dont have those plastic warning things on them like they do in America.

I flagged down a rickshaw and told him... I realized I didnt know what to tell him. I just told him to take me to some hotels... (very dangerous thing to say to a rickshaw, you could end up anywhere) but I knew I was close to one where a French woman I met on the bus was staying. He pulled up to her hotel first thing, I thanked him and payed him with a bottle of whiskey I had in my bag that I had no use for. He was ecstatic with happiness, and didnt even remember to get commission from the hotel, he just sat there hugging his new tiny bottle of happiness.

I went in and the owner said they where cleaning a room and it would be ready in half an hour, I said no problem and sat down. An Italian woman and her daughter kept staring at me and making faces from across the room... I was confused, but nodded politely back when I caught her eye. She walked over and said quietly “do you know that your bleeding?” I smiled and told her that yes I did, but thanks for your concern! She flashed a strange smile and walked back to her daughter. The owner came over and asked what happened to me, and I explained the whole tripping over a wire story. I assured him I hadn't been drinking, and he laughed at me. I checked in, and took a nice hot shower, and now Im laying in bed, Im so excited for a bed and good sleep. Besides the couple hours I had this morning I haven't been in a bed in 3 nights, and havent slept much or at all any of them!

Tomorrow Im going to see the Taj Mahol (not going to go inside, just observe from the outside and dig the people for a while) and then go for my 6pm train to Delhi. I should get to the airport about midnight, and sleep there. Then at 7am I head to LONDON!

India Day Three/Four

The train ride to Ahmedabad was great, I talked to a man and his sick mother, who he was taking home. And as fate would have it I ended up sitting next to a Canadian girl named Rachel. We chatted until bed time, and then climbed into our top bunks (similar to China, three beds on each side of each berth) In the morning we arrived in Ahmedabad. I had decided to continue with her on the train to Udaipur, but she had pre-booked a ticket and I hadnt. Our train arrived late, and she took off to make sure she got on, and I headed to the ticket window to try to find a ticket before it left.
The man selling tickets didnt speak any English, but I managed to figure out that I couldnt get a ticket.
I ran to the train to stow away, and just pay for a ticket when I was caught without one, but I couldnt find the platform because I had no idea what platform it was! I walked back to the main foyer area to find my next move, and I noticed an orange backpack peaking out from behind a barier... I recognize that pack... I walked over and it was Rachel! The train had been canceled. We where both super greatfull to see eachother.
We waited until 8am when the refund counter opened, and she got her money back from her ticket, then we bought bus tickets to Udaipur, and ate some breakfast where - yes, my friends - I drank the water. No problems so far!

We got on our bus and I busted out my headphone splitter and we jammed out to Mumford and Sons with the Dharohar Project (recorded right in Rajasthan where we where heading on our bus)
We pulled in and headed to the lake district, the most beautiful city I have ever seen... and clean!! We found a room for 150 rupees, and went out for dinner on the most amazing rooftop restaurant overlooking the lake. I decided that this city is where I want to take my honeymoon, its super romantic and beautiful. We went back to the guesthouse and chatted with the owner Jahar. He told us his life story, and we soon learned he is the coolest dude in India.
The next morning we at breakfast at another amazing rooftop restaurant, and wandered around looking for leather bags. We bumped into Jahar in the city, and told him what we where looking for. He told us that his friend owns a bag wholesale shop and he could take us there.
The three of us piled on his motorbike and we took off through the insane Indian traffic, knees grazing passing rickshaws and hearts beating like crazy.

The shop didnt have what we where looking for, but he took us to his brothers shop and he sold us some leather bound books for next to nothing.
Rachel and I headed to a shop I had seen on the way, and found just the bags we where looking for. We bartered and chatted with the owner, a 20 year old guy. We drank masala chai together, and designed the details of our bags. I got a camel leather shoulder bag, I chose the shade of leather, and had him put an extra long strap on it. Then I had him etch "Its dangerous business walking out your front door" into the flap.

Then to a turban shop, where I ordered a custom turban, and then to a tailor who is making me a Kurta set (light cotton long shirt and pants)

We headed back to the guesthouse for my birthday dinner (Jahar insisted, even though my birthday is 3 weeks away) He cooked us a incredible meal, and emptied his fridge of beer and water. A bunch of his friends showed up and we ate and laughed together! Then we headed to the roof and smoked shisha under the stars in true Indian fashion.

My back has been killing me since the bus ride, so Jaher had me lay down and gave me an awesome massage, then a head massage. Then I fell fast asleep.

India Day Two

Last night I went to the theater and bought a ticket for the only movie showing. I chatted with two french girls outside, and they gave me tips for India, as Im still badly in need of them!

An old English woman asked if she could sit with me, and I of course agreed. We chatted as the movie began, and after it had started we chatted about what we thought might be going on (It was in Hindi with no subtitles, except the scenes in English... but we didnt need subtitles for those.) After an hour and a half, I woke up and everyone was leaving the theater, I got up to go back to my dorm and sleep, then realized it was just intermission... Bollywood movies are LONG! I left anyway, and walked the mile or so back to my guesthouse. I have felt perfectly safe this entire trip, but having just woken up, not feeling great, and being on the street at 1130 – I felt unsafe. Strangely enough the Mumbai streets are quiet, peaceful and safe at 3am (as I learned the night before) but not at 11pm. I made it back in one piece, and sat down with a Slovakian guy. We chatted, then where joined by an Aussie, a Austrian and a girl from Kazakhstan. The Aussie produced a bottle of gin and a few bottles of tonic water, and we made G&T's and chatted the night away.

Through some strange series of events I still dont completely understand, he called a friend, and after another great night of sleep I was picked up this morning by a film rep. We met up with a few other westerners (English, the Austrian from the night before, a different Aussie, and two Israelis. We took a train to the north side of Mumbai, and proceeded to be extra's in a Vaseline Skin Whitening Cream commercial. We dressed in Australian crickit uniforms, ate a huge breakfast of dosa and naan and all things tasty. Then we waited. From 9:30am until 5:30pm I slept on a bench, talked with my new friends, slept on the ground, read, slept and then ate more food. At 5:30 they called us for our shot, which took about fifteen minutes to film, and then we where payed 500 rupees each, and given money for trains/taxi's back home.

We rode back to Colaba together, and then got Subway (Marvin the Austrian had never had it and always dreamed of it!) I was running late, so grabbed a Chicken Tamir footlong, and got a cab. I downed the whole sandwich on my way back to my massive dorm guesthouse, picked up my bag and took another cab to the Mumbai Central station. We pulled up and the driver said I owed him 200 rupees. I laghed and told him no. He insisted. I demanded the sheet that shows fairs (they try and hide it) and based on the meter I owed him 75. I payed and he was pissed that I knew this system. So thank you drunk tour guide from yesterday for teaching me!

I got on my train, met a Indian man who offered to give me a tour of Jadhpur, but he doesn't speak any English. I got on and we are currently flying towards Ahmedabad on the Gujarat Mail (I feel like Paul Theroux in the Railway Bazaar...)

Tomorrow I will wake up there! And I have no idea what to do. Wicked.

India Day One

India! What a country...

My plane was delayed, but I had the uber exit seat. The window seat with no seat in front of it. Awesome! I watched a movie, and took a nap. The drink cart came by and I asked for a gin tonic, the man gave me two mini bottles of Gordons London Dry Gin (my personal favorite) and two mini tonic waters! I mixed myself my drink, and settled into some Psych on my laptop.

Dinner was served, and I ate a delicious vegetarian curry with beans and rice. The air hosteses all wore sari's and spoke in Hindi, it was a real taste of what I was in for!

We landed at mindnight, and I skipped imigration to go find somewhere to sleep in the airport. I figured Ill tackle Bombay in the morning. But after an hour of exploring, I found that I couldnt find a way into the departures area (where it would be easy to find a nice corner to sleep in) that still allowed me to get out in the morning. I decided to just go for it and enter India. Immigration was a snap, I as usual invented a fake guesthouse for my form, and walked on! I changed some Euro's to Rupees (I no longer carry dollars) and got a taxi to Colaba, where I had heard there was a cheap Salvation Army Hostel.

I was happy that my driver didnt speak English, I was pumped up from adrenaline and sleeping most of the 4 hour flight that I just wanted to look out the window not talk to anyone. He didnt know where the hostel was, so we wandered around and asked some other drivers. We eventualy found it, and I got dropped off! It felt SO good to have my pack on and be walking down a dark lane in a new city alone. I thought it might be intimidating, but I dug it. I walked up the the hostel and it was locked down, a slightly drunk English guy walked up and the guard opened the door and started yelling at him, apparently the “Christian” hostel doesnt allow people who drink, smoke, or stay out late. The guard kicked him out, and I decided to skip that one... Shelter, the Christian hostel that Im going to work for in Amsterdam has a no smoking or drinking policy on its grounds. Completely understandable. But no smokers or drinkers? What is their purpose?

I wandered on, and smoked just to spite the hostel. It was after 2am at this point, and every guesthouse I found was charging over 9000 rupees. ($200) which is insane. I wandered and wandered. On every corner where groups of people sleeping, on tarps, in pipes. Huge rats ran all over the sidewalks, and I loved it. I got to a gas station that looked more like a campground. I counted 15 people sleeping in rows between the pumps. I planned on joining them, but I was still to pumped, so I kept walking.

I found a sweet spot next to some abandon food stalls, where I would be out of sight but still close to the road (where there might be people if I was going to get robbed) I decided to sleep on the street once again, but as I was walking to my spot a taxi driver walked over. We chatted about prices, and he told me he would take me to another area of town with cheaper places, I didnt like that idea... But there was a hotel next to us so I ducked in to check it out, it just had a dark door, and I rang the bell. A sleepy Indian boy opened it and ushered me in. (its about 3am now) He showed me a room, and as soon as I clicked the light on cockroaches scattered and I saw a few bugs scamper off the bed. It had a tiny tv in one corner, and a fan that was badly in need of new bearings. The paint was pealing and the mirror on the wall was in rough shape. I turned around and told the boy “its perfect!” It cost 900 rupees (easily 2 days budget outside of Mumbai) but it was the cheapest I could find, and probably a better option than the street.

I put on shorts and a tshirt to sleep in, and slept like a baby.

This morning I woke up to no bugbites, and the busy Indian noise and the smell of something delicious blowing through my second floor window. I got dressed, packed up and slung my bag over my shoulder. I payed the boy with a 1000 rupee note, and he said he didnt have change, I didnt even say anything, I just looked at him and nodded slightly with one eye closed. He stared back, I stared back harder. A minute passed. He reached under the counter and pulled out a box without breaking out stair, and handed me 100 rupees. I smiled and thanked him, and hit the street.

I stood on the corner just watching, a western guy my age was doing the same across the street, but I had no desire to strike up a conversation as usual... His Bob Marley tshirt and baggy pants and dreadlocks indicated he was a carbon copy of so many people I have already met on the road, and I set off to find some Indians to talk to!

I wandered around, the streets very different from the night before. I stumbled upon the Gateway To India, a giant concrete archway on the waterfront, I walked around it and got accustomed to how touts operate here, they are much more intense than Thailand.

I walked over to a group of western girls, and asked if I could sit next to them, they all looked like they where about to cry and said “only if you promise not to ask to take a picture with us...” I agreed, and sat down. A group of Indian men approached and asked for pictures with the girls, I stood up and told them to leave, they did, and the girls smiled at me. I walked on, and a group of students came up and asked to take pictures with me, I agreed and posed with them. More gathered and pretty soon a line had formed! I took off for a big shady tree.

I sat down under it, and started chatting with a man trying to sell me giant balloons, after I declined, we started talking about other stuff, and soon enough a group had gathered. There where 3 balloon salesmen and me, joking and laughing together. A masala tea vender came over with his carafe and poured us all tea, amazing tea!

We chatted for an hour or so, and then I took off to find internet. My search was in vane though, so I decided to head to the train station and get out of Mumbai, its just to expensive.

I was bargaining a price with a taxi driver, and an India man who spoke perfect English politely informed me that I shouldnt work out a price in advance, all the taxi's here use meters. I asked him about the train, and after a few minutes of conversation (I had waved the taxi on) we agreed to get coffee.

We sat down and he told me he was an unofficial tour guide, but the best one in Mumbai. I listened to his pitch and told him I wasnt interested in seeing the tourist sites, but he was good. He promised to take me to a cheap hotel and then to the train station for a ticket, then if I wanted for a tour of Mumbai. I agreed. He took me to a hostel with a HUGE dorm, bunk beds for 60 people maybe. All Indians, and I got a bed for 200 rupees, then we went to the train station by bus, and I got my ticket for a sweet price. I liked this guy, he was legit any my internal alarms where silent. I agreed to pay him 1000 rupees to take me around today, and it was so worth it.

From the train station we went to a huge flea market where he knew every vendor. He showed me where he bought his ice pick that he used to kill a taxi driver that pissed him off, and where to buy knuckle dusters. I stepped into an antique shop/stall and laid eyes on a beautiful medium format camera. My guide stepped in and the owner instantly ran over to hug him, and because I was friends with his friend, he gave me a sweet price on it – thats right Im the proud owner of a 1940's Japanese medium format (or 35mm) camera. Now to find film...

We kept exploring, back alleys, cows, kuma satra carvings (my guides personal favorite item...) We stopped for lunch at a little cafe, and he ordered me garlic naan and a vegie curry. It was INCREDIBLE. All he wanted was a bottle of rum, which he finished off before I even had the naan in my belly. He went to eat what was left of the curry, but couldnt because it was to spicy. I smiled inside at the fact that for me it wasnt hardly spicy at all – thank you Thailand!

We got a cab to our next stop, and on the way my now drunk guide threw up out the window, he said the curry was to oily for him... But the rum MIGHT have been to blame.

We went through some more slums, and then to where all the clothes in Mumbai get washed. People beating shirts and pants on stones in the scorching sun making pennies, in the shadow of a billionaires new home, with a 36 car garage and three heli ports on top.

Then we headed to some more cool places he knew, I told him I didnt want to see the main tourist sites... Im fine if we skip Ghandi's house and the hanging gardens. I wanted to see people, life, locals. The REAL India. And that we did!

We saw a 3000 year old pool of water, and he told me the story of Rama and he and the other Hindu gods made this pool. We stopped for some drinks, and after he was drunk again he started telling me his life story. This man has been to 14 countries, he is very well educated, but has been on the streets for the last 2 years because he is an alcoholic (at least he knows it! Thats the first step right?) He says that he used to be Christian, and we had some awesome talks about the Bible. Now he considers himself nothing, he eats beef and HATES Muslims, as I soon learned. He also told me story after story of him killing people who pissed him off, and I believe him. He introduced me to uncle, the man who owned his favorite bar, then at the jukebox I introduced him to Radiohead. Then we headed to the red light district just as the sun was setting – the last stop on my sweet tour. We cruised up and down as he told me statistics. You can find girls from 5 to 55 from 50 to 500 rupees (the price MAX there is ten dollars...) He told me the process for finding child prostitutes, and how it all goes down. Its very similar to Thailand, just cheaper, younger, and more in the open.

We headed back to where Im staying, and he got in a huge drunken argument with our driver. They finally resorted to screaming at eachother in Hindi, and the driver stopping in the middle of the road and kicking us out. Turns out the driver was a Muslim, and my guide hates them. We tried to hail a new taxi, but each prospective driver had to undergo a religion interview by my guide, and because we where in the Muslim district – it took a while. I just stood there and smiled apologetically to the drivers.

We eventually made it back, and went to an internet cafe where he insisted to be my friend on Facebook, I thanked God that I had set up a fake Facebook a few months ago, complete with loads of people I dont know as friends. I said goodbye, and by this point he was super drunk again, he got in a fight with a tailor on the street and threatened to slit his throat with a beer bottle, I smiled and the man and I shared a knowing nod when my guide wasnt looking.

Now Im sitting at a coffee shop, and I think Im going to end my night with a bollywood film at the theater down the street! After I sneak back to the internet cafe and upload this blog of course. There is NO wifi here...

Day one in India has been awesome, so far I love it. Tomorrow Im kickin it in Colaba, and then heading north to Ahmedabad on the night train. Then to Rajasthan for the remainder of my time. I plan on getting a wool coat tailored in Delhi, and then I fly to England! Im so looking forward to that. So much!

Culture shock hasnt been a issue yet, not sure if it will be. I can see why this place has the rep it does though... its nuts.

The Next Episode

Im leaving Thailand? This doesn't feel right!
I have been hanging out with a super cool dude named Dan for the last few days in Chiang Mai, eating vegetarian food and going to art gallery openings.
Its only when I look at Thailand through the idea of leaving it tonight do I realize how much this place has become my home. How normal everything is, the culture the language the customs. It doesnt feel like a trip destination anymore...

Im having the same feelings and emotions as I did just before I left home to come to Thailand! But now Im leaving my new home to go to India!

Im stoked for the new adventure, new culture, new food to try! Im boarding in an hour, flying to Bangkok then tonight I fly to Mumbai. Im planning on sleeping in the airport, and then tomorrow either finding a place to stay or taking a train somewhere. Mumbai is expensive, and I have missed trains! I cant wait to try the Indian rails.

Philosophy Change!

I have been quoted saying, long before I left on this trip that "when I travel, I prefer to meet other travelers over people from the culture Im in" I totally said "Im just as happy hanging out with a Dutch guy in Nicaragua as a Nicaraguan. In fact I prefer it sometimes!"

Well that is not true anymore. Maybe its taken getting off the road and living in Chiang Rai for me to see, that I love locals. When I traveled in Central America, I needed to be in a hostel with a bunch of other foreigners to feel comfortable. Right now Im in my favorite guesthouse in Chiang Mai, surrounded by French, Dutch, Germans and English. And I feel uncormfortable. I find myself chatting with the Thai staff and not the other travelers.. This morning at the Indian embassy I got annoyed with the other farangs (foreigners) waiting in line with me. I talked to an Indian man and I was much more energized and stoked!
I have spent many days over the last 2 months spending time with just Thai people. Talking with Malai and Duan in the morning. Getting lunch at my noodle stall and chatting to the owner. Getting dinner with Lek and In, and then going to a festival and not seeing another foreigner for days. The language barrier, and cultural differences that used to intimidate me now are comforting! I loved Chiang Mai two months ago, but I dont like it so much anymore. Today during lunch, I was people watching and I counted more foreigners than Thai's in the street, I really missed Chiang Rai and its undiscoveredness.
When I was in Central America, and even at the beginning of this trip my highlights, the things that made my days where meeting other backpackers, and seeing the sights. The reclining Buddha in Bangkok, volcano boarding in Nicaragua, snorkeling in Costa Rica.
But not so much anymore, the things that I love most about life right now are this.

• While driving from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai this morning, I saw several spots on the road where I have memories. A place I stopped and sat under a tree and ate an entire chicken four months ago while making the same drive, and a shop where my bike broke down when I drove up two months ago and the owner fixed my clutch for free.
• When I pulled into town and failed to avoid a police trap ticketing people without helmets, I chatted to the cop in Thai, we talked about Thailand and joked about America. He charged me half price for the ticket (200 baht instead of 400) and explained where the police station was. I payed and went back to him to pick up my drivers license, and he smiled like we where old friends. He gave me a hug before I left, and introduced me to 2 other police officers who smiled and shook my hand.
• I ran out of money, and told the woman who owns the place I live, she told me that the kitchen was mine, and the staff will make me any food I want free of charge. She hired a new manager and the first thing she did was explain that I am family and can do whatever I want (use the kitchen, hang out in the office, use the computers without paying, etc) Im going to visit her and her husband in Switzerland - they said Im welcome any time for as long as I want.
• I pulled up to the place I rented my motorbike today (I have 32 days that I havent payed for, and havent heard from them or contacted them in as long) The owner, who had never met me came out and said "are you Taylor? Jeff told me about you! How are you?" He cleaned the bike and tightened the chain and told me "keep it as long as you need, we will work out payment later. The Thai girl who works there pulled out my sunglasses that I left there a month ago and handed them to me, she remembered they where mine.
• Im learning Thai beyond the few traveler phrases! I can recognize lots of words in songs and on TV.
• I know Chiang Rai like the back of my hand, I consider it MY town now.
• I went into a bookstore I frequent, and the owner remembered me by name, she pointed at the Jack Kerouac section, she knew I was heading for it. And gave me a sweet deal on a book I traded in.

These are the type of things that make me super happy, that I live for.

I havent been on a single "tour" no Gibbon Experience, elephant riding, trek or cooking class. My friend Duan taught me how to cook while we where hanging out in the kitchen one night. A friend took me up into her village in the mountains and her mother gave me a bunch of bananas and showed me her house. That is a million times more meaningful and rewarding than paying an inflated price for a guide to take you on some set tourist route... I have zero interest in that.

It reminds me of Xi'an, China. I planned on spending a day there, but I was at an awesome hostel. I met awesome people. The restaurant across the street knew my order and started cooking as soon as they saw me walking over. I spent 5 days there, and then went back with Eric. I never even saw the terracotta soldiers of Xi'an. But I feel like I know Xi'an better than most. THATS what traveling is about for me.

It cant be accomplished in a hurry or on a tight schedule. And it takes going off the beaten path and trusting people who you dont necessarily understand.

It takes breaking out of the traveler circuits, and staying away from places like Vang Viang, Laos. Its different and by no means for everyone! Im not belittling other ways of travel. But this is the way I want to do it from now on.

India? What!?

Well I just bought a ticket to India!

Over a year ago, after my trip to Central America I wanted to travel again. I didnt really care where. My friend Desiree put me in contact with her friend Emily, who had just come back from traveling in India. So I met Emily for lunch and she sold me on India, I planned it and was going! But things changed, and Thailand and south east Asia took priority.
I bought a ticket to Bangkok, and then I got a job in Amsterdam! So I bought a ticket from Bangkok to Amsterdam. It routed through Egypt, so I gave myself 2 weeks there. But now because of the riots and unrest in Egypt, my tickets where canceled. So now Im in Thailand without a way onward to Amsterdam!
I started searching for the cheapest way to go, and found that Air India flys from Bangkok to London (London is a quick ferry ride from Amsterdam) for very cheap! I worked my magic on the layovers, and managed to snag a ticket like this...

Bangkok - Mumbai
ten days
New Delhi - London

So now I will get to spend ten days working my way through Rajasthan before ending up in Europe as planned!
I leave in 2 weeks.

In other news, I lost my debit card somehow... Fortunately I had a backup plan, and by using my Paypal debit card I can still withdraw money! But there isnt much in Paypal ($60) and not much more in my checking account (that I now cant access)
My parents mailed me my new debit card that the bank sent me, and the credit card I opened on the road. But its not here yet, it should have been here a week or two ago. I was able to use the credit card to buy my plane ticket, because I have the number. And tomorrow I will check into getting a cash advance using just the numbers and not the actual plastic. The owner of the guesthouse where I live told me today that the girls will cook me anything I want to eat for free, and I dont need to worry about paying for my room until this situation is taken care of. My motorbike rental place is awesome, and I can keep the bike without it being payed for, and when the time comes to return it, my deposit should pay for all the overdue days I have kept it.
I can eat lunch at Destiny Rescue for free every day, and mama noodles for dinner (top ramen)

Its amazing! Im out of money on the other side of the world, and the people that I have met are taking care of me. Several people have offered to loan me money, but Im enjoying living on the cheap for now.

But in two weeks, when I head for India, I will need some actual money. PRAY that the box my parents sent arrives by then, and I will be able to get a cash advance. Thats what Im waiting on.

Spirits are high, this will work out somehow...